|
All Messages List |
Subject |
jsSxYWRNqbK |
Contents |
|
Low Voltage transformers (ELV or MLV) are trciky. Just because you have the voltages the same doesn't mean you have the right current being drawn by the LED's.It could be too low or too high.Were the original halogens MR16 form factor as well?I'm guessing the xfmr was specifically designed for a set voltage/current/power.Consider this:Two 20W halogens = 40W.Power=Voltage*Current20=12*II = 1.67 amps through each bulb, 3.33 amps total drawn from the xfmrTransformers operate on the principle of Power in = Power Out. The xfmr is probably designed to provide 40W, regardless of whatever current draw you put on the transformer.The LED's only need 6W from the xfmr. However, the xfmr probably doesn't care. It's still spitting out 40W at 3.33A. 0.5A (2*3W/12V) is all the LED's need. If the xfmr is still trying to provide 40W at 0.5 amps, the output voltage is compensated up to 80V coming from the xfmr. Most LED bulbs have protection for this in the engine, (the regulator/stabilizer as you call it), called over-voltage protection. This is probably whats causing the bulbs/transformer to fail.The problem is, especially with transformers, is that you must match the load. If the transformer is expecting a specific load and you give it something it can't handle, it'll either destroy the load or damage the transformer. The easiest way to avoid this is to always match the power of the original load to the load you intend to put in. 40W of halogens should be matched with 40W of LED. This is the gimmick with retrofit bulbs like the MR-16. You're not really saving any energy when you use retrofit bulbs. You just get a longer bulb life and a lot more light from the same power draw.LED lighting is a niche market. If you can't figure it out, wait a few months and LED lighting fixtures will decrease as the market is flooded with new product and becomes more competitive. I'd recommend investing in something like that instead of retrofitting.
|
|
|
Name |
rLAspyqkQDjDN |
Time |
2012-12-5 |
Reply |
|
hello! Existing relevant sales staff to contact with you!
ReplyTime2014-8-13
|
|
|
Subject |
ENGLISH_MESSAGE |
Contents |
|
Your's is the intelligent appracoh to this issue.
|
|
|
Name |
bZjQUXQosz |
Time |
2012-12-5 |
Reply |
|
hello! Existing relevant sales staff to contact with you!
ReplyTime2014-8-13
|
|
Subject |
gUWYZoOxWPlsu |
Contents |
|
I was so confuesd about what to buy, but this makes it understandable.
|
|
|
Name |
hcnipuVgkjrPNPNjBB |
Time |
2012-12-5 |
Reply |
|
hello! Existing relevant sales staff to contact with you!
ReplyTime2014-8-13
|
|
Subject |
ENGLISH_MESSAGE |
Contents |
|
Thanks for being on point and on taregt!
|
|
|
Name |
vODSiUQBlOaFVQlLEFc |
Time |
2012-12-5 |
Reply |
|
hello! Existing relevant sales staff to contact with you!
ReplyTime2014-8-13
|
|
Subject |
rDrCDTCNws |
Contents |
|
I'd say you were correct in asnsmiug it's the alternator; it sounds like the most likely suspect simply because it seems you are using more power than is being replenished. Before replacing it though, I recommend taking it to a parts supply store (Auto Zone, Advance, Checkers, Etc.) and they will test it for you, more often than not for free. If the alternator is in good shape, have them test the battery (again, they will do it for free) and you should find what part is at fault.
|
|
|
Name |
pbGPNXpGpqZ |
Time |
2012-10-19 |
Reply |
|
hello! Existing relevant sales staff to contact with you!
ReplyTime2014-8-13
|
|
|
|
|
|
|